St. Petersburg
I am falling in love all over again. It is the people. Organizing everything is time consuming and a pain but the sense of humor, youthful fun etc. surely makes it an overall joyful experience. Of course there remains the endless sense of intrigue and skullduggery, so trust is in short supply but once one accepts that, one just get on with it. Of course I, in my usual blundering innocence, have no idea as to what is really going on and will probably barge where angels fear to tread.
6th. The sun pounds the Venetian blinds. Yesterday’s excursion to Peterhof was for me somewhat spoiled by the heat. What an amazing place. I loved the cool of the gardens and the way history projected from the very bricks and mortar of the buildings. Could not help thinking that for me the gilded statues, many if not all seeming to be copies, were a bit much, often coyly “clothed” in fig leaves. Did not get a chance for a close study, but a glance suggested not very good copies – vulgar and hasty attempt to emulate more western palaces. Timeless beauty takes time. Although I must admit history is replete with evidence that the combination of wealth and ruthless ambition has wrought wonders, but in this case there are plenty of details that remind one of a cardboard cut out. Maybe I am just not looking hard enough. But in the super structure such as in the stone canals, for me the real beauty lies, in them and the distance glittering spires like those of the Peter/Paul fortress.
8th 2.30 a.m. Dinner at midnight. White night wonder, darkest dark a deep ultramarine blue… 10th the day was glorious for me because the heat broke in strong cleansing rain to be repeated in the evening with a sky seething with dramatic cloud exploding in lightning, thunder and more welcome rain. That there were clearing spells spilling sunshine onto the wetted city made things even better. This great setting placed us in the perfect mood for the restaurant called “Garcon” with superb food (U.S. prices) and best of all the live musicians who were brilliant. I hate the superlatives born perhaps of free flowing wine, but they only describe my joy in a small way…
We walked out the merriest band in spite of a few little typical tensions. Little did we know as we ambled up the Nevsky there would be an explosion other than nature’s storm from a most unlikely quarter. In a matter of perhaps sixty seconds, they went from debate to heated words to a swing by Feyodor leaving Andrei lying on the pavement moaning. I was stunned and angry and embarrassed walking ahead until I realized I had to take part assisting those who were assisting him to his feet. The argument resumed and had to be broken up by me. Andrei apologized sulkily and took off. Fyodor, still heated, and horribly embarrassed explained that it was rooted in the inevitable financial pressures and then he took off too. Andrei then calls us at 1.30 a.m. with more of the story. Fyodor made it home but Andrei refused him entry, so he climbs up outside the building the three floors risking his life, breaks the kitchen window, Andrei calls the police, no arrest because Fyodor has left. He asks us to give him shelter for the night should he show up. He did not.
At least the weather has cooled. I love it. But it does little to soften the sense of tearful sorrow that my illusions are just that, illusions. To me this seems to be a tough if sentimental people. Cannot but imagine what my friend V’s life may really be like…Went out to his apartment shared with his girl friend. I was so glad to see it for myself. It was small but comfortable in one of the enormous crumbling housing projects of the 50’s or 60’s (I guess) on the outskirts of the city. But it was set in a wild environment of trees and lush weeds filling large spaces between the buildings.
I am falling in love all over again. It is the people. Organizing everything is time consuming and a pain but the sense of humor, youthful fun etc. surely makes it an overall joyful experience. Of course there remains the endless sense of intrigue and skullduggery, so trust is in short supply but once one accepts that, one just get on with it. Of course I, in my usual blundering innocence, have no idea as to what is really going on and will probably barge where angels fear to tread.
6th. The sun pounds the Venetian blinds. Yesterday’s excursion to Peterhof was for me somewhat spoiled by the heat. What an amazing place. I loved the cool of the gardens and the way history projected from the very bricks and mortar of the buildings. Could not help thinking that for me the gilded statues, many if not all seeming to be copies, were a bit much, often coyly “clothed” in fig leaves. Did not get a chance for a close study, but a glance suggested not very good copies – vulgar and hasty attempt to emulate more western palaces. Timeless beauty takes time. Although I must admit history is replete with evidence that the combination of wealth and ruthless ambition has wrought wonders, but in this case there are plenty of details that remind one of a cardboard cut out. Maybe I am just not looking hard enough. But in the super structure such as in the stone canals, for me the real beauty lies, in them and the distance glittering spires like those of the Peter/Paul fortress.
8th 2.30 a.m. Dinner at midnight. White night wonder, darkest dark a deep ultramarine blue… 10th the day was glorious for me because the heat broke in strong cleansing rain to be repeated in the evening with a sky seething with dramatic cloud exploding in lightning, thunder and more welcome rain. That there were clearing spells spilling sunshine onto the wetted city made things even better. This great setting placed us in the perfect mood for the restaurant called “Garcon” with superb food (U.S. prices) and best of all the live musicians who were brilliant. I hate the superlatives born perhaps of free flowing wine, but they only describe my joy in a small way…
We walked out the merriest band in spite of a few little typical tensions. Little did we know as we ambled up the Nevsky there would be an explosion other than nature’s storm from a most unlikely quarter. In a matter of perhaps sixty seconds, they went from debate to heated words to a swing by Feyodor leaving Andrei lying on the pavement moaning. I was stunned and angry and embarrassed walking ahead until I realized I had to take part assisting those who were assisting him to his feet. The argument resumed and had to be broken up by me. Andrei apologized sulkily and took off. Fyodor, still heated, and horribly embarrassed explained that it was rooted in the inevitable financial pressures and then he took off too. Andrei then calls us at 1.30 a.m. with more of the story. Fyodor made it home but Andrei refused him entry, so he climbs up outside the building the three floors risking his life, breaks the kitchen window, Andrei calls the police, no arrest because Fyodor has left. He asks us to give him shelter for the night should he show up. He did not.
At least the weather has cooled. I love it. But it does little to soften the sense of tearful sorrow that my illusions are just that, illusions. To me this seems to be a tough if sentimental people. Cannot but imagine what my friend V’s life may really be like…Went out to his apartment shared with his girl friend. I was so glad to see it for myself. It was small but comfortable in one of the enormous crumbling housing projects of the 50’s or 60’s (I guess) on the outskirts of the city. But it was set in a wild environment of trees and lush weeds filling large spaces between the buildings.
posted by Trevor Southey at 2:25 PM
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